Every year during Easter, some of the most devoted Filipinos mark the occasion in a way that’s both fascinating and undeniably dark. The event is called the Cutud Lenten Rites — a public reenactment of the crucifixion of Jesus Christ. And yes, this includes actual crucifixions, with nails driven through hands and feet.
Landing in Manila
After landing in Manila, I had a few hours before meeting the group, so I went to see some attractions. In hindsight, visiting San Agustin Church during Easter week was not my smartest move — it was completely packed. The crowds made it more stressful than enjoyable, so I ended up just wandering the streets for a while before heading to the meetup point.
The Road to San Fernando
From there, our group made the drive to San Fernando, the site of the festival. Naturally, we stopped for Jollibee on the way — you can’t visit the Philippines without it.
At the festival grounds, I got stamped in as VIP and was handed a “Media” tag — all thanks to YPT’s arrangements. The first thing that caught my attention were the three large wooden crosses on a small hill, already surrounded by people taking selfies. I climbed up for my own photos, because of course I did.
Blood, Dust, and Devotion
The atmosphere was a mix of street food, religious fervor, and anticipation. Then came the first shock of the day — a commotion at the entrance. A procession of men, their backs covered in fresh, self-inflicted wounds, walked slowly toward the hill. They were flogging themselves with wooden sticks tipped with nails or blades, chanting in Tagalog. Some were so drenched in blood that it dripped onto the ground. I got close enough that a few drops ended up on my shirt.
These penitents eventually reached the hill, knelt, and prayed — part of the prelude to the main act. Among them were people holding signs with messages like “Jesus died for you” and “Jesus is the only way.”
The Main Event
When the main performance began, the volume shot up — drums, narration over loudspeakers, and dramatic orchestral music like something out of a movie. Actors in robes, some on horseback, moved through the crowd. Two figures dressed entirely in black followed closely behind a man carrying a massive wooden cross. His body was covered in blood, his face twisted in pain — whether from acting, genuine agony, or both, I couldn’t say.
Then came the moment that makes the Cutud Lenten Rites so infamous. The “Jesus” actor was laid down on the cross, his hands and feet positioned over large iron nails. There was no trick — this was real. The hammer came down with heavy, echoing strikes. The crowd gasped. Some people winced, others crossed themselves. You could hear his screams over the music.
The cross was then lifted upright and placed in the ground, the man still nailed to it under the scorching midday sun. Around him, the other actors played out the final moments of the Passion with raw emotion — shouting, weeping, and praying.
Aftermath
After the performance ended, paramedics rushed in to tend to the man’s wounds. Media crews swarmed around for interviews. The smell of sweat, blood, and dust hung in the air.
It was intense, shocking, and deeply memorable. While it might be hard for outsiders to fully grasp, the devotion of those who take part is undeniable. For them, this is the ultimate act of faith — a physical, public, and painful offering.
I witnessed it all from the VIP area, just meters from the action. An unforgettable day.
If You Go
If you want to see it for yourself, YPT’s tour makes it straightforward to arrange — and you’ll get a front-row view of one of the most extraordinary Easter traditions in the world.
